That’s, of course, assuming that in between your practice sessions she didn’t have a chance to get rewards for the opposite behavior! By the end of the week, the good behavior-in this case, not jumping and sitting politely-should be a habit!
For instance, if you set up the situation where your dog is excited to see you five times a day and each time she earns 10-20 rewards and never has a chance to jump then by tomorrow she will probably be sitting automatically in this situation. Tip 5: Practice a lot in a short period of time.īecause your goal is to develop a new greeting habit with your dog, it’s essential that you practice a lot over a short period of time. When she’s completely stationary, you can quickly bring the treat all the way back to your body and clearly out of your dog’s reach so she know she doesn’t get the treat yet. This will cause her to stop will all four feet on the floor. As she’s running over to you but before she has a chance to jump (preferably when she’s about 2 steps away), suddenly flash a treat right to her nose level by just straightening your arm. You can add in what I call a flash lure before she has a chance to jump. If your dog tends to jump on you and then sit afterwards, you should change your strategy FAST so that you don’t accidentally reward this chain of behaviors-jump then sit. Tip 4: Use a flash lure to prevent the dog from getting the first jump in. Then the focus should be on switching to other rewards such as petting and praise. This process should be repeated until the dog is sitting automatically and remaining stably seated. At first, the treats should come rapidly-enough to keep the dog seated-but as soon as she is sitting stably at that treat interval, the interval should be increased and varied.
The first treat you give is for sitting, but additional treats are for remaining seated so that the dog doesn’t just get up and try to jump again. Giving just one treat for sitting often won’t hack it. Then quickly and systematically reduce and vary the rate. Once the dog is sitting, the owners need to reward at a high reinforcement rate. Tip 3: Use a high reinforcement rate first. If you remove attention in a clear manner, you will see a quick and clear response from their dog. Or it may just mean pulling your hands away and back to your body. When training a dog how not to jump that may mean standing up completely straight and holding both arms folded against your body while you stand silent and stationary to remove attention. What dog owners should do is to remove what their dog wants, attention in this case, within 0.5 seconds and do it in a way that the dog perceives that they have removed their attention. Their hands are still dangling out there like tug toys or they are still walking around, which makes them look interactive to their dog-all “rewards” to a dog. What they don’t realize is that their dog does not perceive their actions as a removal of attention.
For instance, most of my training clients complain that they are ignoring their dog when she jumps up but they aren’t getting the results they want.
It turns out that if you ignore an unwanted dog behavior, you may accidentally be rewarding it. Instead remove the rewards for unwanted behaviors. Tip 1: Don’t ignore the unwanted behavior from your dog. Note that these can be applied to other behaviors too. Everyone knows that you should reward good behaviors and ignore bad behaviors, right? So it makes sense to ignore a dog when she jumps on you and reward her with a treat when she sits, right? WRONG! You need to do more to train your dog to sit politely and not jump up, but it’s easy to do.
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